Lou Stoppard's Column Explores Guy Bourdin's Sighs and Whispers at Foam Fotografiemuseum Amsterdam
Curator and author Lou Stoppard offers a captivating perspective on the fashion catalogue as an art form in her latest quarterly column for Foam Fotografiemuseum Amsterdam. Her reflections center on Sighs and Whispers, a unique publication by renowned photographer Guy Bourdin, sparking an internal dialogue about artistic expression in unexpected mediums.
Stoppard's essay begins with a personal encounter: an unsolicited fashion catalogue in her postbox. This seemingly mundane object, despite its uninspired imagery, prompted her to consider the significance of fading mediums. This led her to revisit Bourdin’s 1976 lingerie brochure for Bloomingdale's, which was his only published book.
The Enduring Impact of Sighs and Whispers
Guy Bourdin's Sighs and Whispers stands out for its distinctive and often provocative imagery. The catalogue features models in Donald Brooks’ Luxurious Quiana Nylon Collection, captured with a blend of offbeat chilliness and confrontational sensuality. Stoppard highlights how the images can feel like glimpses through a keyhole, or stark, direct gazes amplified by harsh ring lighting. This singular publication underscores the artistic potential found within commercial commissions, much like other notable advertising brochures in photographic history.
Fashion Photography's Intimate Connection
Upon its release, Sighs and Whispers stirred controversy, partly due to its "edgy" content. However, a significant part of its impact stemmed from the intimate nature of its distribution. Sent directly into homes, arriving unannounced in living rooms and bedrooms, these images fostered a one-on-one viewing experience. This contrasted sharply with the more public consumption of billboards or gallery art.
Stoppard argues that fashion photography inherently connects intimately with viewers, often prompting self-comparison related to the body. This anxiety is amplified in the private space of one's home, where decisions about personal appearance are made daily. Sighs and Whispers, delivered directly to this personal realm, acted as a disruptive force, challenging perceptions of art and advertising in a highly personal setting. The essay prompts readers to consider the profound impact a viewing location has on how we interpret images.
Reflections on a Fading Photographic Medium
The unexpected arrival of the physical catalogue at her home led Stoppard to ponder the ephemeral nature of various image-consumption technologies. She draws parallels between the catalogue and other objects that have become relics of a bygone era, like physical photo albums or even McDonald’s ashtrays. For Stoppard, the fashion catalogue represents a dispatch from a pre-internet time, when images were tangible objects held in hand or pinned to a wall, contrasting with the pervasive screen-based viewing of today.
Visual Storytelling and Concealment
Bourdin’s images in Sighs and Whispers cleverly explore themes of what is seen, and how and where. His work plays with the idea of concealment and revelation, a central tenet of lingerie itself. One notable image features women flanked by a large curtain, blurring the lines between domesticity and a theatrical stage.
Another complex photograph shows two women in floral loungewear, viewed through a reflection in a wooden mirror, set against a similarly floral wallpaper. Polaroids of other lingerie-clad women are tucked around the mirror frame, a subtle nod to the photographic process and familiar domestic habits. This "images within images" effect highlights the elusive and momentary nature of reflections, while simultaneously emphasizing the permanence and physicality of photographs as objects within a personal space.
To discover more about the world of photography and explore current exhibitions, you can browse other unique cultural spots within Amsterdam's art scene. Explore contemporary photography and visual storytelling further by visiting the diverse museums in Amsterdam or view them on our interactive map. Musemap (musemap.art) helps you uncover the city's rich cultural offerings.
