This entry details the 'Traje del valle de Ansó,' a traditional Aragonese wedding costume from the mid-19th to early 20th century. The costume is significant for its historical context, relation to Sorolla's preparatory studies for the Hispanic Society of America panels, and its unique design, including a distinctive green woolen overdress and a richly decorated linen shirt.
The 'Traje del valle de Ansó' is a traditional Aragonese wedding costume, potentially dating from the mid-19th to early 20th century, originating from the Ansó region of Huesca. This garment holds particular significance due to its connection with the artist Joaquín Sorolla. Sorolla acquired such costumes, including this one, for research and inspiration while preparing his ambitious decorative panels for the Hispanic Society of America, depicting Spanish traditions and regional attire. The costume features a striking green woolen overdress, or 'basquiña,' characterized by a high waist and a solemn, straight silhouette, which contrasts with other regional wedding attire.
Beneath the 'basquiña' is a detailed linen shirt, notable for its puffed sleeves and a prominent, wide, pleated collar ('gorguera') reminiscent of 16th-century Italian fashion, finished with bobbin lace. On the arms, blue woolen false sleeves ('falsas mangas') adorned with black jet passementerie, possibly indicating they were worn during festivities or a period of mourning, add another layer of historical detail. The costume's associated hairstyle, featuring 'churros' (hair rolls), and ornamentation like a ribbon rosette ('escarapela') and jewelry, further highlight its cultural and stylistic context. Although intended for the Hispanic Society, these pieces remained in Madrid and eventually became part of the Sorolla Museum's collection. Due to its delicate nature, this textile is not regularly displayed in the museum's permanent galleries.