This exhibition showcases 120 contemporary jewelry pieces by 32 Spanish creators from 1940 to 1990, with many unique items donated by individuals and companies. It explores the shift in jewelry appreciation towards artistic value over material worth, highlighting experimental approaches in Catalonia and Spain.
Laboratorio de joyería, 1940-1990' features 120 jewelry pieces by 32 Spanish creators, most of which are unique items generously donated by private collectors and companies. This exhibition, curated by Mónica Gaspar Mallol, offers a distinct perspective on the jewelry of the second half of the 20th century. It highlights an international trend that revolutionized the concept of jewelry, where creators began to value pieces based on artistic criteria rather than material worth, a movement known as Studio Jewellery or contemporary jewelry.
This artistic current also solidified in Catalonia, influenced by significant precursors such as the multifaceted Modernist creator Lluís Masriera, the families of jewelers and silversmiths Sunyer and Mercadé, and the singular work of Manuel Capdevila. The exhibition also acknowledges the contributions of sculptors like Pablo Gargallo and Julio González. By presenting the more experimental facet of Catalan jewelry, the Museum of Costume aims to increase the presence of this discipline within its programming. The exhibition is structured thematically, encouraging visitors to reflect on nature, appearance, process, and the individual, and it encompasses contributions from both traditional jewelers known for their careful execution and formal research, as well as creations by artists trained in art schools who exhibit a freer execution, in tune with other contemporary art disciplines. Finally, the exhibition includes some interventions by painters and sculptors in the field of jewelry.